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How to Change Golf Shafts: 8 Easy Steps

Last Update: September 10, 2021

Are you more of a DIY (do it yourself) person? Then you can tactfully tackle your own maintenance issues like changing the broken, bent, or damaged golf shafts all by yourself. This task, inserting a new shaft, is not too tough to handle. Though if you are fairly a novice in this arena, you better look for a local club repair shop.

The complexity lies in the questions like why, when, and how you can change a shaft and what materials should be used for this. You must keep in mind that golf is all about high costs, specific scopes for improvement, and making contradictory decisions now and then. Thus you can stick to your tight budget while changing the shaft on your own.

Why Change Your Golf Shafts?

  • When the shafts are bent or probably broken or damaged
  • Not flexible enough for the player’s swing
  • Too stiff for your swing mechanisms or swing speed
  • To check out different and latest shaft technologies and advancements on the market

How to Change Golf Shafts? – Step-by-Step

Why Change Your Golf Shafts

Materials Needed

  • Shaft (the same size as the original one)
  • Ferrule(s)
  • Heat gun
  • Utility knife
  • Caliper
  • Wire brush
  • Shafting beads
  • Shafting epoxy
  • Protective leather gloves
  • Shaft extractor
  • Acetone


Step 1: Removing the old shaft

First remove the small piece of plastic above the hosel of the shaft called ferrule. Warm the ferrule with a heat gun and use a utility knife for scraping it off the shaft.

Now fasten the shaft in a shaft extractor and clamp the shaft in the tool snugly. Otherwise, the shaft will slide back and forth and it will be difficult to heat it evenly.

It is imperative to remove the epoxy between the head and the shaft. Use a heat gun to burn off the epoxy. The hosel that the shaft is clasped to must be heated evenly to melt the epoxy bond and eventually detach them.

Wear protective leather gloves to be on the safe side because heated part of the hosel may rise to than 1000° F that could burn your hands.

Step 2: Separating the old shaft and the head

You can easily pull off the shaft and the head once the epoxy is dissolved.

Step 3: Cleaning the hosel using a wire brush

Clean the epoxy residue remaining inside the hosel. A wire brush is enough for cleaning out. Further, you can apply droplets of Acetone that will remove existing greases inside the hosel.

Step 4: Arranging the new shaft for installation

Choose a new shaft according to your demands and get it ready for installation. You can use a caliper while double-checking the size of this shaft. Make sure the size or diameter is that of the size or diameter of the previous shaft.

You have to heed the particular company’s advice on tip trimming. The recommended process varies upon the shaft type (steel or graphite). You must be extra careful if it is a steel shaft and not graphite. As the fibers of a graphite shaft can be damaged easily and you might have to change the shaft again for being incautious.

Step 5: Fixing the ferrule on the new shaft

Place the ferrule on the trimmed tip of the shaft and shove the shaft tip in the hosel. The ferrule has to be in proper depth. So tap the shaft gently on the floor.

Step 6: Applying epoxy to the inside of the hosel

Prepare a two-pack epoxy mixture and add a hardener like shafting beads in that mixture. Blending shafting beads is not necessary but these round pieces of silicone make the shaft go into the hosel smoothly.

Fill the hosel with epoxy and shafting beads mixture. Check whether the coating has covered the whole surface or not. If not, make sure to do so.

Step 7: Inserting the new shaft

As the hosel and the shaft are ready, it’s time to insert the shaft into the head. Apply the remaining epoxy and shafting beads mixture to the tip of the shaft. Now push and pull the shaft gently into the hosel a couple of times for settling down.

Align the head and the shaft. Again tap the shaft gently in the head on the floor a few times. You may wipe off the residual epoxy blend from the hosel area.

Step 8: Letting the glue set for 24 hours

Find a perfectly aligned place for letting the shaft rest against the wall. Usually, it takes 24 hours or so to dry off the epoxy completely. After a day, you can bring your A-game to the field with the re-shafted club!


1. Can I use gorilla glue on clubs?

Ans. This is not recommended by pros because the torque pressure and the force that you put on the shaft may weaken the glue and your club head may end up flying off the shaft.

2. Does shortening a driver shaft make it stiffer?

Ans. Shortening a driver shaft surely makes it stiffer. It will also adjust the swing weight. But remember that the more length you shorten, the less flexible your club will be.

Decide to remove the extra length only if you want the shaft stiffer than before. Confirm from your local club experts if you find it still confusing.

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